[carl s]

Another piece of the jigsaw, a 1.8 NA alternator with a ribbed pulley so it fits the mk2 engine

To do list:

- fit new alternator to 1.8 with 1.6 bracket (may need modifying) enlarge wiring loom ring terminal

- transfer over oil pressure sensor

- transfer water temp switch & water gauge switch to back of engine (remove the three wire sensor)

- replace flexible fuel lines on 1.8 (as this is a mk2 not a 2.5 they are both push fit rather than fancy connectors)

- I have decided to take another look at the crank oil seal at the crankshaft end and if it looks OK I will leave replacing it. I've heard horror stories of new ones being fitted slightly wrong and starting a new oil leak. Interestingly I have spoken to two MX5 specialists now and they both said to leave well alone if it's not leaking. When I removed the flywheel there was no sign of oil on the back of it or on the crankcase.

- figure out a way of blanking off the exhaust side of the EGR pipe (I have already fitted the EGR blanking plates to the engine side)

- refit lightened flywheel, clutch & bearing

- fit new release bearing & arm, bolt up new 6 speed box to engine & fit starter motor

- rewire CAS wires to 1.8 cam sensor & crank sensor

- I'm keeping the 1.8 coilpack but will need to sort out the plugs between looms

- 1.8 TPS also being kept, may need to transfer plugs

- Fuel rail, as this is a '99 UK spec engine it still uses a return fuel system (unlike the US mk2 Miatas from 99 or the UK VVT engines which use a returnless system) so I should in theory be able to keep the mk2 fuel rail intact.

- keep the 1.8 engine mounts, fit with the upgraded mazda competition mounts I have on the shelf

- remove charcoal canister, I'm reliably informed you can re-use the two wires for it to power the VICS system which is nearby it in the engine bay

- Fit an ME221 & vacuum pipe (with modified resistors) to control it all

Still debating whether to fit an AEM wideband as it's not FI and intend to have the car set up properly on a rolling road.

 

[WoofWoof]

Just read the whole thread. It's an inspiration to anybody wanting to bring their car up to scratch (myself included). Actually, you make me feel a little bit guilty I haven't done all the things I want/need to do over the last couple of years. Of course I've plenty of excuses! :lol:

Keep up the good work, really looking forward to the engine build - n/a,standalone & light f/wheel with a sorted head and cams should be really sweet, it would be my choice too. Rock on!

 

[carl s]

Just read the whole thread. It's an inspiration to anybody wanting to bring their car up to scratch (myself included). Actually, you make me feel a little bit guilty I haven't done all the things I want/need to do over the last couple of years. Of course I've plenty of excuses! :lol:

Keep up the good work, really looking forward to the engine build - n/a,standalone & light f/wheel with a sorted head and cams should be really sweet, it would be my choice too. Rock on!

Thanks :thumb-up: good to know someone is reading the thread.

Took the opportunity today to tidy up the subframe that was thick in oil, then treated some surface rust on it. Now the rest of the engine bay looks dirty I'm going to have to clean that too !

Started working on the new engine today, changed over the water sensors, removed the small core plug from back of the block for one of them, then tried to replace the mk2 oil pressure sensor with the larger 'real' mk1 sensor only to find that the OEM knock sensor was in the way. A quick bit of research has assured me that it seems safe to just remove it from the engine as the NA didn't have one anyway...

(Knock sensor is the one at the top with the thick black wire coming from it)

Also spent a while playing with the coilpacks and the brackets. I decided to keep the 1.6 coilpacks if I can to minimise any changes to the car's loom. At first I did some alterations with a grinder and made up a quick alloy bracket to fit the 1.6 coils into the 1.8 bracket. This didn't give me enough clearance away from the block so I then though I'd try using the 1.6 bracket and making up some funny shaped adaptors to fit it. The 1.6 NA bracket bolts to the head, whereas the 1.8 NB top bolts direct to the rocker cover.

1st attempt with NA coils in NB bracket

Second attempt with adaptors to make NA bracket fit NB engine

Much happier with this approach, looks more factory even if I did waste a chunk of time doing it twice

My last job today was to take a look at the Flywheel oil seal, it looks pretty dry round there, a bit grubby on the block in places but no oil around the seal so I'm thinking leave well alone <_<

 

[carl s]

Some interesting questions over what seems like slightly different fuel hose sizes (see separate thread) https://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=384169#entry4497855 when I removed the inlet manifold it confirmed that the 1.8 UK NB cars did in fact run a return on the fuel rail which is good news. However my plan to re-use the 1.6 NA injector harness has changed due to the fact that the 1.6 injector plugs crumbled when I took them off the old car! So I'm now stripping the NB injector harness back to modify with the NA 1.6 loom plug. Both the NA & NB MX5's fires it's plugs in a wasted spark configuration and only has three wires across the four injectors (one wire is common) which means the same signal to squirt petrol into the cylinder goes to (4+2) then (3+1)

Whereas the NB loom has five wires (one common) so I need to wire them up to mimic the 1.6 sequence.

It's strange that the injectors fire in a different sequence to the plugs as one of the fuel injections goes into a closed intake valve, but apparently that's by design so it's ready to be drawn in later in the 4-stroke sequence. It's explained quite well here: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=15264

And an update on the flywheel oil seal, when I looked inside the gearbox bellhousing from the 1.8 car it's full of oil :wacko: so my supposition that the oil seal was good is now only a 50/50 chance that it was the crank oil seal or the gearbox oil seal. So it looks like i will be changing it after all.

 

[carl s]

More progress this weekend, replaced the flywheel oil seal with the help of a new seal removal tool

Fitted the newly lightened flywheel & clutch with my makeshift centring tool

I'm a big fan of my new flywheel locking tool

Trial fitted the newly bought mk1 1.8 alternator and bracket

Swapped over the electronic speedo sensor for a 4.1 manual one, also swapped the reverse light bullet connectors on the box

Fitted a new Cam cover seal, and swapped over the nice chrome cover bolts from the old 1.6 engine, fitted the CAS sensor to the exhaust cam and extended the wiring by 6" or so

And fitted the gearbox...

Just need to fit the new engine mounts, then waiting for a replacement injection loom (my connectors snapped getting them off), some 5/16 fuel injection fuel hose, and a inlet manifold gasket on back order from MX5parts.

 

[Lidders]

looking great.

Keep it up.

LIDDERS

 

[carl s]

I'm waiting for a inlet manifold gasket to come into stock before I can refit the engine.
In the mean time I thought i'd try loosening the one stuck rear hub but. But the fecking thing won't move, I've ground off about 2/3 of it and still what's left won't budge. I don't need the driveshaft so half of that has gone as well ! But still nothing...

 

[Zed.]

I'm waiting for a inlet manifold gasket to come into stock before I can refit the engine.

hurry up, I'm watching to see if you say the conversion was worth the effort as I'm split between keeping my Eunos1600 or converting to 1800

I have an early 1800 engine but unsure if its worth the 'fiddlin.......

Rich.

 

[carl s]

Just ordered a ME221, IAT sensor and remote diagnostic setup from Valley5s looking forward to the remote diagnostics so I can get it onto the road

 

[carl s]

Well it's in! after a day of swearing and scraped knuckles. Can't figure out the clutch line brackets but I suspect that's something to do with the fact I now have a 6-speed and the shape is slightly different of the bellhousing. I've decided to simplify things and fit a Goodrich direct braided line from master cylinder to slave - cutting out all the hard line, fixings etc. Just noticed the brake vacuum hose is too short so another one for the list!

 

[carl s]

After much fighting with a grinder & dremmel I eventually managed to get the nut off the rear hub, once it was off the driveshaft just pushed out !

Just a little scratch to buff out on the mating surface so not too bad.

3.9 Torsen diff and new propshaft fitted today, 1.8 driveshafts are next

 

[carl s]

I tried to fit a new MX5parts 1.8 manifold to the car today and it has some clearance issues (photos below) It's a new 4-2-1 manifold for the 1.8 mk1 so I think it's the right part, one of the secondary pipes is hard up against the footwell. I don't have a OEM exhaust for a 1.8 to check if that fits Ok, Looking under the car it appears to come out in the right position at the end. So is this just a case of "fettling" the tunnel with a big hammer?

 

[carl s]

The downpipe issue was resolved by using an OEM manifold and aftermarket downpipe. Everything is in now including the ME221 and thanks to Dai at Valley5s it's up and running via remote diagnostics. A few teething issues with both the IACV (which I will be replacing) and the wiring & settings for the TPS, but so far it runs enough for me to get it set up professionally at a rolling road.

Taken for a couple of short drives to test everything up to temperature and initial impressions are:

- 6-speed box is fantastic, like a knife through butter and much slicker than my old 5speed, maybe I had a knackered old 5 speed but don't believe everything people say about the 5speeds being better!

- You can definitely notice the LSD kicking in on tight junctions, the car shoots forward without spinning it's inner rear wheel

- The 1.8 engine is great, seems like the old 1.6 but just with a lot more grunt! (not used WOT until it gets set up properly but even with half throttle it's a lot more rapid than the 1.6

- Engine seems just as revvy as the old 1.6 which I put down to the lightened flywheel perhaps.

Just need to source a new/good used IACV and get it setup properly at the end of the month

 

[carl s]

Couple more issues before the session at Skuzzle, noticed a weep from the top hose connection to the thermostat housing which I need to address, plus the oil is a few mm over filled so I will pump some out through the dipstick hopefully. Also performed lot's of further tests on the idle valve (resistance = 9.7ohms, earthing it opens the valve fully now) and it seems to be functioning as it should after it's cleaning so probably just down to the idle setting in the ECU now.

Also trying to figure out if there's an exhaust leak or whether it's just my imagination I can hear something...

 

[carl s]

Rolling road session at Skuzzle went well, engine behaved interestingly as in the Cams ran like the BP5a engine on the dyno, I never saw the car in person that it came from but the picture showed a '99 mk2 with full factory bodykit and a/c so it's entirely possible it was an RS.

(figure below is hp at the wheel)

Engine was set up by Nick at Scuzzle in the UK, The way the cam timings behaved on the dyno indicates that's very likely to be an RS engine. Interestingly VICs was set up to switch on at 3500 and off at 5500 above which it was detrimental to the power.

HP figure showed is wheel hp, which I am extremely pleased with. I also fitted a 6speed box and 3.9 Torsen diff which means I can really exploit the new power. gears 1,2, are pretty frantic but fun, gears 3 and 4 now pull hard all the way to the red line

Depending on how you like to calculate flywheel hp, 139whp = around 160-166bhp at flywheel. Exhaust is blowing on the standard manifold so I've bitten the bullet and ordered a Racing Beat one (after being let down my three other manifolds!) buy cheap buy twice as they say! This should free up 4-5 more hp and see the 170bhp mark hopefully.

 

[carl s]

Haven't posted for a while the car has been running well, made a few changes over the last year but mainly just been driving & enjoying it

I changed the k&n typhoon back to a hybrid of standard airboxes to avoid heat soak using a mk1 1.8 crossover tube with mk1 1.6 airbox with air intake sensor & k&n panel filter + short early mk1 1.6 snorkel.

Mid last year I had the Catback exhaust changed to a bespoke stainless steel one for the car, it now makes a lovely sound but took some time to bed in. The sound changed to a more cultured tone when i switched the cat bi-pass out for a standard cat with no noticeable loss in power.

Also made the move to 15" Team Dynamics Miata-spec wheels which handle really well, you can definitely feel the wider track. Managed to do a few small changes during lockdown, sprayed & fitted an OEM rear spoiler, re-dyed the hood liner after it faded to light brown, also made a radiator cooling panel to stop the air escaping over the radiator. Next on the cards is an upgrade to 1.8 brakes all round plus pedal brace & Willwood proportioning valve.

Wheels before the spoiler was fitted

New wheels & Spoiler

Hood before & after dying liner

Radiator blanking panels (wanted them to fit under the bumper brackets to look less conspicuous) so made in three parts

Mix of standard airboxes with afm bi-pass pipe

 

[boosted]

Looking great. Love the TDs.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

[jenkt]

Hi Carl,

I believe you bought the spoiler off me, in M40 service station??

Cracking build just read from the beginning, right the way through, did you manage to get the AC installed and working? I need to re-instate mine on my MK1, and i'm about to put a MK2 engine in......

I would suggest some foam between the rad and cross member, i can send you a strip if you like that would block up that gap.....

Also if your looking for some 1800 carriers let me know.....

 

[carl s]

Hi Carl,

I believe you bought the spoiler off me, in M40 service station??

Cracking build just read from the beginning, right the way through, did you manage to get the AC installed and working? I need to re-instate mine on my MK1, and i'm about to put a MK2 engine in......

I would suggest some foam between the rad and cross member, i can send you a strip if you like that would block up that gap.....

Also if your looking for some 1800 carriers let me know.....

Hello yes that was me! couple of years back it's been sitting on the shelf waiting for a rainy (or lockdown as it's now called) day. Glad I got round to fitting it as very pleased with how it looks. I never did do the a/c as I fitted the mk2 engine but I collected all the parts, I have a used compressor + rebuild kit with seals & the oil plus an american condenser and two dryers to choose from. It'll need a small section of pipe made up to join the US dryer as it's in a slightly different place from memory. I don't think I will get round to fitting them as I removed the pipework from the car (without damaging it)

I do have a mk2 compressor that came with the RS engine that might be more suited to the car, but can't say I have missed the a/c as much as I thought maybe I've just got used to not having it. The mk2 RS engine, 6speed and 3.9 diff really suit the car and it drives like they were meant to be there. The 167 bhp makes a big difference with the closer ratios of the 6 speed keeping revs in the right band, I know it shouldn't strictly have the RS badges on it but I like to think that I've made a kind of homage to the real mk1 RS using some of it's older brother's (mk2 RS) parts

Thanks for the offer of the carriers, but I have the ones from the mk2 RS that donated everything else. Foam between the rad and crossmember is a good call I think I might have something left over from my old Karmann Ghia project. I've been following your RS restoration but I can't remember if I made the link to it being you! That's one seriously mollycoddled car!

 

[carl s]

More small jobs on the weekend, first was cleaning the purge valve from the fuel tank. Turns out that early 1.6 don't have the same plastic one way valve that the rest of the NA have, instead they have a metal valve which allows different pressures to go in/out. I tested the line by blowing air with a bicycle pump through the now defunct charcoal canister which flowed freely. The valve was blocked when I removed it (looks untouched for 29 years!) as lots of air escaped from the tank when disconnected, cleaned with carb cleaner & tested with bicycle pump. It definitely has more resistance before letting air through one way than the other which is as it should be according to the workshop manual.

Next on the list were the upgraded washer jets and although all the guides say they are shorter than original they also say that the originals have non-return valves in the jets. My system had the non-return valves inline so I took the opportunity to replace all the lines.